None of these has a layer of grated cheddar on top that’s gone all brown and delicious in the oven. You start with a very buttery roux while the macaroni elbows are cooking. Make a super cheesy sauce with a spoon of mustard in it, using full cream milk. Drain the macaroni, add the sauce, and pile it into a buttered oven proof dish. Cover with that layer of cheese. Slide it into the preheated oven and distract yourself somehow for ten or fifteen minutes. (I mean, you could use that time to make a salad but who are we kidding.)

So good.